Monday, December 4, 2006
My secret for staying young is good Italian food, plenty of rest, and a makeup man with a spray gun. (Bob Hope).I'm no culinary Nostradamus & it doesn't take a visionary to figure out that TRATORRIA CONTADINA needs a another chef--yeah, for a hope-filled second restaurant. Since opening almost 20 years ago this gem in North Beach, "little Abruzzi", has been a hit with locals & lucky tourists who are in on the secret. The artist in the kitchen, Jean-Pablo, is NOT psychorigid, humorless. His single redeeming vice is to share a bad joke, this time about an Jewish-Japanese restaurant...
What's its name? I asked. So-sumi! Drum roll please!
Frugal shoppers in Chinatown or gezillionnaires in the new Westfield Mall, lost in a holiday daze can easily walk here. Or hop the cable car/MUNI 30,45 toward Fisherman's Wharf (1800 Mason;(415)982-5728) Reservations are a must. Mon-Friday 5:30-9-00;SA-SU until 10pm. During the holidays, you can listen to 3 wise black men channeling the Dixie Hummingbirds version of "You can call on Jesus" at the Caffe Roma (I called & asked HIM to save from the maddening crowds, no answer) , stop by Tosca & crack a few jokes with the politicos, or hang at the Washington Square Bar & Grill where you can run into Tom Brokaw,ay & sip a dirty vodka martini!
Contadina's motto: LEAVE YOUR PROBLEMS AT THE DOOR: MANGIA & BUON APPETITO! This is a small, upstairs-downstairs & upstairs is suitable for everyone offended by the decibel levels in restaurants now. Milo will bring you a bottle of chianti classico Castella de Gabbiano (39) which does well with my favorite appetizer: Carpaccio de manza (filet mignon, arugula, parmesan, olive oil, capers) or for heartier appetites, try the flat iron steak entree which a couple of guys from Montana swear is scrumptious. Bathed in a balsamic vinegar reduction, red onions & caper sauce, it's served with garlic spinach & luscious creamy polenta. Big enough for sharing!
The chef must have stolen his mother's homemade fish stew recipe (made seasonally) & steamed in a basil & oregano sauce(22). My dining partner had the chicken marsala w/pan-roasted chicken breasts (hormone free) with a delightful swiss chard & delicately roasted potatoes.
Desserts are the Italian classics & a real bargain (6): tiramisu, spumoni & gelato (try the hazelnut). Good for sharing!
If you decide to saunter down to Columbus, don't forget Verdi & Elvis play non-stop at Cafe Puccini where you get the hipster who's just finished his/her first novel & is enjoying the latte (2.50), fresh fruit torta(4) & gay banter. W.C. Fields said California is the only state in the union where you can fall asleep under a rose bush in full bloom & freeze to death. In North Beach, you'll be greeted with warm smiles by Jean-Pablo & his hardworking staff. Grazie & Buon Notte!
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