CAFE DIVINE: VALENTINE'S DAY, SUI GENERIS LIVES UP TO NAME!

Cafe Divine (1600 Stockton;(415)986-3414; no reservations). I have no problem finding girls, but the world has changed. Before you take a girl to bed, you have to discuss the plague. I can't deal with those sorts of negatives as foreplay.(Jack Nicolson). Where's Jack now? Probably bonding with his daughter. Wright brothers David and Wade have scored a hit with this little restaurant overlooking Washington Square Park, in North Beach. They didn't try to guess what a million foodies and music lovers will like. The know what THEY like. They do everything right and it's turned out perfect.(wrighton1@mindspring.com)

Wacky, naughty and oh-so-deep Wade-in-the water had a joke for me on Valentine's night: How do you know when Pinocchio's in love? I don't know, when his nose get longer? No, when he has a wooden heart-on! I brought it down a level: Why do mice have little balls? Because they can't dance! (Or no balls, if they hang out at the computer too much, n'est-ce pas?) I have been on a lot of blind dates and fooled around in my time, I should get a free dog! Have you tried suicide bombers? At least they commit! Kaboom!

If you come to Wade/Dave's place on Wednesday night, you'll be treated to a riveting guitar duo singing and fingerpicking songs from the 90s. The 1890s, that is! Veteran guitarist Craig Ventresco, a native of Portland, Maine and his remarkably gifted, sweet-voiced mate, Meredith Axelrod, who occasionally stands on a chair to get the guy and dolls to pay attention, are a dream team. Back from Manhattan where they chose not to live, they've settled in the sunny Mission District for good. Meredith and Craig are no lipsynching drones. Meredith keeps her pristine voice in superb, tip-top condition. Stuff from Satchmo, songs like Mississippi Mud, Mandy and Me, I love my Baby (My baby loves me)? A piece of cake for this dream team! Anything from pre-1890 to 1950. Unfortunately, Craig can rarely be cajoled into singing. If you love your TV "live" (I do), this is the place to celebrate. Sundays is jazz combo night.

Cafe Divine is a place for classic Italian comfort food: warm olives (2.5); soup and salad (6.25), thin-crusted, over-fired pizza have names lifted from Catholic liturgy: Inferno, Purgatory, Paradise, Divine.(10-13). Do you know that Italian immigrants brought pizza to America, and the first pizzeria opened in the New York City in 1905. It wasn't until after World War II, however, when soldiers returned from Italy with stories of a wonderful food eaten without utensils, that it took off, and it remains one of the most popular foods worldwide. (Life is Meals; James and Kay Salter.)

Wade and Dave support small farmers and use sustainable products when possible. Try the seafood catch of the day. (AQ), quiche with mixed greens (9), lamb & lentil stew (15). However, the prix-fixe dinners (beginning at 5:00) are highly recommended: warm olives;soup du jour or salad; a choice of three entrees; warm brownie or glass of wine.(18). The entrees are roasted chicken dinner (half and herbed all-natural, free-range chicken served with mashed potatoes and vegetables); lamb and lentil stew braised in red wine and olives; or quiche of the day. Sometimes you get a great pasta, like the spinach and ricotta manicotti. Brilliant!

Desserts are a must-splurge (6). Try the Extra Penance Chocolate Cake, and if you need an excuse to indulge, other than the fact that chocolate is an aphrodisiac and mood booster, remember dark chocolate has 15 times the antioxidants found in broccoli. Americans consume 12 pounds a year. Also excellent are the Cloud 9 Cheesecake, Lemon Tart, and Brownie Sunday.

Earlier in the evening at one of the Larkspur hotels, San Francisco wit/punster poet, Stephen Kopel recited a poem about another dessert. Bone Apart. (The Napolean surrenders in a sweet tooth busily taking aim at custard skirted in puff pastry seductively camouflaged as a tart troops recall from her strawberry swagger on the outskirts of Paris). The poem is from Tender Absurdities (Meridien; 2006) and he inscribed it to me: "a glorious nebula of feminine energy." Nebula? Thanks, Stephen. Oh, Zeus, if you regard kindly the condition of man, then send him in search of this punny volume. (YOU RIP A DEES).

I eavesdropped outside the restroom and someone was doing a Larry Miller riff from the repertoire of the sarcastic king of the bizarre narrative: I just broke up with someone and the last thing she said to me was, "you'll never find anyone like me again." And I'm thinking, I should hope not. If I don't want you, why would I want someone like you.
Kaboom!

Thank you Wade and Dave Wright for a 3-star restaurant. May it thrive on your cozy dream site overlooking Washington Square Park!