Tres Agaves(www.tresagaves.com;130 Townsend near AT&T ballpark;415-227-0500) is more fun than a barrel of monkeys. If you're jonseing for a delicious Jaliscan specialty, try this South Beach cantina owned by rocker Sammy Hagar and his amigos, chef Joe Manzare, and managing partner Eric Rubin, a Southern boy originally from Nashville. One thing for sure Joe is prince of hocus-pocus in the kitchen. He is also known about town as the boy-genius on the bike: formerly tutored by Wolfgang Puck, he was not in the kitchen that evening. I asked Eric Rubin, in a buoyant mood, the title of his favorite Hagar song? "Everyone thinks it's You're Driving Me Crazy but it actually Bad Motorcycle. Old joke: Do you know 98% of the Harleys are still on the road? The other 2% made it home!
Joe Manzare is the force behind the Jaliscan, handmade tortillas, fresh & dried chilis, toasted pumpkin seeds and the famous Agave Tequila. Most expensive shot is $350(!). Does Sammy serve this with a limo waiting outside, asked the "drug peddlers" (pharmacy students) at the next table? They'd been imbibing the stuff all night long. This stuff is meant for sipping and not shooting said one joker. A bumper of good liquor/will end a contest quicker/than justice, judge or vicar. (Richard Sheridan). I suppose nothing is given so profusely as advice. If you're tired of wasting away in Margaritaville a la Jimmy Buffet, try the specialities: carnitas, tacos, wood-fired rotisserie chicken.
You can judge the quality of a Mexican place by first things brought to table: salsa & chips! Here they are made fresh everyday: chips melt in your mouth & salsa satisfies: hot! The ancient Aztecs would be proud! Each meal is preceded with corn tortilla, refried beans, cilantro rice, black beans, mango cabbage salad. Try these dishes:
Ensalade de Jicama: jicama, orange & cabbage salad with arbol, chile powder and toasted pumpkin seeds. We were forewarned; my dining companion's assessment? It rocked! Hot!Hot!Hot!(9) Try the tacos al Pastor: adobo-marinated pork & chicken tacos from the wood-burning oven: Excellente!The many side plates include a Mexican corn dog: a fresh ear of corn with crema, cotiga & arbol chile.(3) A brilliant idea! Other favorites are the classic guacamole (8), the raw shrimp, cucumbers, tomato, avocado tossed with serrano & habanero which I've tasted on a few occasions.(9)
Carne Asada con salsa de chipotle and tomatillo : a skirt steak with smoky & hot sides is a favorite of mine.(22)What's up next for Joe? He's the proud chef-owner of Globe, Zuppa, and the new Pescheria, in Noe Valley. He's thinking of a high-end sushi bar with amazing fresh fish. He'll be flying to Japan to do research. One thing I know for sure, as John Cassavetes said: No matter who old you get, if you can keep the desire to be creative, you're keeping the man-child alive. Good luck, Joe, in your next creative playground!
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment