ZAZIL: HAPPY ENDINGS & WELCOME, ROCIO!

Monday, December 18, 2006

Happy endings in Rocio Gomez' Coastal Mexican kitchen. Frank Sinatra to Frank, Jr.: Don't let me catch you singing like that again, without enthusiasm, you're nothing if you aren't excited by what you are doing. That was ions ago & mostly I just wanted Frank to shut up & sing! Rocio Gomez, former chef to mustachioed, macho, ex-Presidente Vicente Fox at the turn of the century, sings & the catholic fox's favorite dish? Black mole oaxaqueno! The passionate, napoleonic Rocio learned how to make a corn tortilla from her mom in San Luis Bogosi (middle of Mexico) but her regional influence is Yucatan. She is currently studying Peruvian techniques. Her kitchen is on fire with a medley of Mexican imports: jalapeno, tomatillo, chipotle, morita, fresh herbs, guava, jicama...it changes seasonally. You name it; she's got it! Organic? Yes (if local). No (if imported). As we all know, Mexico is in the Stone Age when it comes to produce! Caveat emptor!
ZAZIL (845 Market St; zazilrestaurant.com;495-6379) is open for lunch at 11:30 & serves until 11:00 F&S;closed Sundays. RESERVATIONS ARE A MUST). Why not catch a great movie at Century upstairs, where George Lucas is responsible for the superb sound system & then saunter down to Rocio's kitchen. Don't forget to start the meal with the tequila sampler (prices vary) from the great bar & catch an eyeful from the "idiot box" (my prejudice) or dissect the movie with a pal (the "sound" here is cacophonous so you may have to use sign language).
APPETIZERS: Try Rocio's favorite octopus dish: Tirapito made with octapus carpaccio, olive oil, fresh lime & chili piquin.(14) Or start with the guacamole, mixed at the table (a wildly popular favorite).
SALAD: Try the mixed greens with mango, avocado, flower petals & jicama with cilantra-basil vinaigrette.(10) Brilliant! Enjoy the nautical surroundings of authentic sea kelp & Latin music--a blissful buzz--and if you're not delirious from the tequila, so on to the platos.
MAIN COURSE: The salmon tower is a veritable Taj Mahal: a mini-mountain pan-seared salmon fillet wrapped in portobello mushroom carpaccio w/black mole & potato-white corn.(26)
This is a piquant & subtle mole in town (better than at the cousin restaurant Colibri) & the presentation is a beauty to behold but at these prices, I expect (did not get) wild salmon, not the inferior farm variety.
I tried the shrimp enchalads sauteed & wrapped in hand-made tortillas w/ green mole w/hoja santa, pumpkin seed & tomatillo: it was succulent, flavorful but not spicy enough for me. (22) Rocio, are you toning down the heat level for the gringos? Big mistake, in my opinion.
Debi, the General Manager, loves to clown around & her favorites are the grilled fish filet, pork, beef, chicken entrees -- just about everything...ask her about her ZONE diet...very friendly gal.
HAPPY ENDINGS WITH DESSERT: The highlight of my meal was the Budin de Requeson -- a "healthy" Mexican tiramisu made with requeson cheese (like cottage cheese) & a mixed berry sauce. (8) Share! Share! Share! Gracias, Rocio for a delightful evening.
SUGGESTION: Rocio, why not indicate "spicy preference" on the menu for those who don't like their Mexican bland? Just a thought! Remember the next time you stop by & have upscale, gourmet Mexican cuisine at ZAZIL, to thank the staff: we are a nation of immigrants or descendants from immigrants, are we not? We should be grateful to them/us for making our nation what it is today. Bon Appetit!