Friday, December 8, 2006
There's less & more here than meets the eye! Chef-owners Steve & Mitch Rosenthal & affable, hardworking Doug Washington are the wunderkinds of the culinary scene & have a new kid on the block. Just as three words are critical in real estate (location!location!location!), here at The Salt House: fish,fish,fish.(545 Mission between 1st & 2nd,with parking next door). I love the buzz here & bare bones minimum of frills at this upscale fish joint. The upscale bricked wall is not covered over with pseudo-art, the large mural of Don Quixote on the back wall captures the esprit de corps of the place, ditto the fantastic lighting! If you are after romantic "gemutlikeit"(coziness), 86 this place & find a more congenial place for conversation...the buzz turns conversation into a silent movie. The menu changes daily & I've been there twice. These are my recommendations:
Appetizer: crispy shrimp/spicy green beans/serrano ham/almonds (13). This is extraordinarily lightly battered w/crunchy beans & fresh harissa (a North African spice), Thai red hot chili peppers, anise & a scattering of arugula. A winner.
Entrees: Sauteed scallops w/ kohlrabi/Moroccan spices (26). My dining partner, Will, thought the texture & taste so novel you would think they're still alive. He knows "alive": He is the adopted father of 6 unruly but lovable dogs which he rescued from the holocaust of death & execution: Sam, Lucky, Kyra, Checkers, Gretchen, Girl, who are good dog angel, fighter, sweet, beautiful, gypsy & soul lover, respectively. The next time you are in Noe Valley, stop & stroke! Back to the scallops: I thought the spices did not have enough punch...too bland for my tastes.
Try the Atlantic monkfish w/sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes)/black trumpets/oxtail jus(26). Substitute arugula for the artichokes.
Desserts: all are excellent value. Share.
My only criticisms would be that the greens are too meager but it's obvious the Rosenthals & Doug are becoming the "badass" boys of the late night culinary scene (they serve until 11:00). Take in a GREAT movie at the Century (The Departed, Volver), saunter down to The Salt House & you'll have no regrets, unless you have to have a conversation about the film. Good luck, boys!
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